Do It Yourself Solar Power? – Easy DIY Solar Panel Installation!

So a lot of people think that solar solar panels are actually pretty fragile, but that’s not the case. I am currently walking on top of some and I weigh about 200 pounds now. Obviously this isn’t something you want to do on a regular basis. They are made of glass, but still can’t be a jerryrigeverything video without a durability test. [, Music, ], [ Applause, ], [, Music, ] jerry-rigged headquarters is currently powered by 100 % renewable solar solar energy and in today’s video i’m going to show you how i installed these.

So there are a ton of places to buy solar solar panels, but I found that I could do it myself for about half the price. I’Ve partnered up with a company called a solar wholesale that actually sells DIY kits. That include everything you need and one convenient package, including the custom installation plans that you need for your permits from your city, also keep in mind that these solar solar panels will retain 80 % of their solar energy, producing ability for the next 30 years and then continue producing Electricity far longer than that, and even though I went into this project, knowing that I was going to install solar myself, I did price out other options and it turns out. Tesla was one of the more fairly priced out there. So if you don’t want to install solar yourself, Tesla is a good option and I’ll we have a two hundred and fifty dollar discount for them also down in the description all right.

There is a lot of information to go over and not a lot of time to do it. So, let’s get started the biggest perk of working with solar wholesale is this plan set the plan set is the instruction booklet designed specifically for my house with all the information I need to get the permits and approvals from my city, along with the plan set. They ship every single part that I need to install my solar system and one big kit, which makes the whole project much easier since the parts work together right out of the box, plus the solar solar panels are made right here in the United States. Getting someone like Tesla to come, install the solar, for you is still worth it. Of course, it just takes a few more years to break even but either way, you’re still making a positive impact on the environment and lowering your electricity bill from the moment.

The panel’s get connected. Remember every house is going to have a slightly different roofline and different solar energy needs, which is why it’s nice to have this plan set. That was custom made in my specific situation. This is the wiring diagram. All this makes a lot more sense when you have the parts right in front of you, it’s the last time I was climbing up my roof.

I broke my wrist, so there’s that so we’ve laid out where the perimeter of the solar panels are gon na be on the roof, with a lumber, crayon and a chalk line, and this will just help us visualize, where the panel’s are gon na be and where we’re Gon na lay the rack that the solar panels rest on top of it’ll all start making sense in a minute. So, in order to attach the racking system to the roof, we need to find the trusses that are underneath the shingles and the plywood, and the easiest way to do that is with a hammer, listen closely. You can hear the difference between the loose area of roof and the solid area of roof, and that’s where we want to drill down and attach our lag bolts. We could tell by the resistance that the drill bit had all the way down through the wood that we hit. You know.

Instead, we had something good to tie into so once you found your first trust. All of the rest will be in the same spots. So if you’re working by yourself, you can just attach the tape to the drill bit, that’s still in the stud and Mark two feet on center, all the way down the roof. So before we can attach the rails that hold the solar panels, we have to put the flashing down and I’ll explain what the flashing does in a second. Before I can put the flashing down, I do have to put some of this clear sealant in a u-shape around the hole.

That’S the flat bolt goes through and then I’m also gon na put some clear sealant into the hole, because the whole point of this is to keep water out of the roof. Then I can lift up some of the shingles slide, the flashing underneath and then this is the part that holds the rail will put the lag bolt through the opening into the holes we pre-drill in earlier and then we’ll ratchet it down into place. [ Laughter ], but now the flashing is in place. We can visually see how it keeps water out of the roof. You know the water will run down the roof and it won’t go into the holes we just drilled, especially if you missed a hole and how to drill an extra one as well as each of these bolts right here have a black washer around the top, which Also helps seal to keep the water out.

So the reason I decided to go with the snap and rack system is because these little Elfi right here are adjustable up and down. So the rail can adjust underneath the panel’s to keep the panel’s level, and the reason is called a snap and lock system is because the rails sit right on top of these little feet and they click into place. Just like you know a little Lego, the rail itself is black, which makes a little more aesthetic on top of the roof, and it can slide forward and backward inside of the channel as we’re positioning it and there’s a channel inside of the rail that hides the Wires for all the micro inverters, so the rails are up and it’s microinverter time, so the micro inverters they’re held in place with these little metal pieces, which can just dip into the rail and then clip up into place. The reason we decided to go with micro inverters over other inverters is one they’re easy to install and two they’re much safer. They convert the power from DC to AC right at the panel and if one panel does get covered by, like, let’s say snow or a shadow from a tree, the rest of the panel’s keep on working, which isn’t always true of other types of inverters.

So all of our solar solar panels are on the roof and there has to be a way to get the power from the roof into the house. We do that with something called a roof junction box. We have to drill a small hole in the roof, and normally this would be an F if you have attic space, but in this particular building. We do not so we’re gon na drill, a bigger hole, fish the wire through the wall and pull it up through the top. The bigger hole is still fine, though, because the roof junction box, once we seal it up with that clear sealant, will make sure no water runs inside the shingles, we’ll just fit down over the flashing, and no water will be able to get into the attic space.

So the cable that connects all the micro inverters together is called a trunk cable. This is what brings the power from the micro inverters down to the roof junction box, so the trunk cables laid down inside of the rail we’ve put some electrical tape over the connection, and then we just zip tie the whole thing to keep it secure. So remember: every house is going to be a little bit different, but this is the exterior roof junction box and we have the yellow wire running through inside the attic space. All of these wires were provided in my kit, but we need to switch from the yellow insulated wire, which is indoor wire to exterior wire when we’re running it through the conduit there’s great stuff down along the side of the house. This junction box is where we’re going to start feeding the exterior wire down through there and then into the breaker panel.

So since these trunk cables are generic, they’re probably not cut to length just yet, and so we’re just gon na chop it where we need it and remove the extra plugs, then we can take these two trunk cables inside of this junction box and connect it to The insulated yellow wires down to our exterior junction box on the wall, so we’re just about to start laying solar panels and because of how many solar panels are on this roof, I have to have two arrays, which means that there’s two trunk cables coming into this junction box. You might be wondering what we’ve done down here on this section of roof, and it’s because we can fit more solar panels if we run them horizontally, so we’ve laid the rails out in a different way, and that just shows that, no matter what your roof looks like, We can always orient the solar panels to most utilize the space, so this copper wire right here is called a system ground and it’s tied into each one of these rails with little spikes and clips. So if any electrical anomalies like faulting or lightning happens, it’ll just transfer the electricity right into the ground heading down to the junction box. So let’s talk about setting the solar solar panels and wire management for a second right. Now we have three solar panels in place and a fourth one right here, ready to snap in each solar panel, has two wires on the back that plug into the micro inverter.

The micro inverter can hold four solar panels at a time. Then it runs down the trunk cable. All the way to the roof junction box down there at the end, the DC wires, are at one into the panel’s we’re running the wire end down the center line, so they can easily plug into the micro inverters that we have placed on the rail. Remember that none of these wires can be touching the roof, so there are little eyelets at the bottom that we can zip tie the wires to. We can also them together a little bit to make sure that nothing is touching the shingles before we plug them.

In this little guy right here is called the mid clamp. This is what clips into the rail and holds a panel on either side. There’S a myth going around that solar solar panels aren’t very green because of how much solar energy it takes to produce them. In the first place – and that’s also not necessarily true, depending on where the solar solar panels are manufactured, it takes anywhere from six months to three years for a solar panel to offset the carbon it took to make it in the first place, which isn’t very much time. Considering how long its lifespan is another perk of the solar panels that came in my solar wholesale kit is that they are black on black, no silver frames.

It’S something to think about. When you’re picking out solar panels, I got the black ones, so they blend into the roof. A bit more another perk of having the micro inverters is that the system is totally modular. We can add solar panels or takeaway solar panels as much as we want, and we don’t have to worry about the junction box or like limiting our system to a certain size. When we set it up the first time, it can always be expanded.

The nice thing about the snap and rack system is that every fastener on this project is either a Phillips head screw or a half inch sprocket, which makes the installation go pretty quick because you’re not looking for all kinds of tools. So now we have our solar solar panels installed. We’Ve left our rails a bit long to give ourselves a bit of leeway, and now we can just cut them off, so these in clamps basically slide into the channel, and then, when we tighten this bolt right here at the end, it snugs it up tight and Holds the panel in place, then these plastic end caps, snap on to keep everything looking aesthetic from the ground: [, Music, ], [ Applause ], all right. So let me play what’s going on electrically here for a second, we actually haven’t connected the wires. Yet this is the panel.

That’S powering the house, we’re in right now and we’ve drilled a hole through the panel to the outside, and then these two boxes out here that we just installed are gon na. Take the power from the solar solar panels on the roof, bring them into this box, combine all the solar panels and then head over here to the solar disconnect, which can actually disconnect all of the power from the solar solar panels heading into the house. It’S a safety thing when working with the wires in the electrical part of the solar system. Remember two one: follow local cold and be follow. Your plant set it’ll, explain everything you need to know.

So we have the larger array up here. The smaller array down here at the bottom and they’re all connected in this joiner box here in the center all the wires from the roof and this side panel over here feed into this, and you can see these ground wires. These copper wires that were attached to the rails. All those are heading down to the breaker box, which I’ll show you in a second now we can tuck all these wires inside the box and close it up so down here in the breaker box. This is what’s accepting the two strings that I have.

Each of the strings has their own 20 amp breaker, black and red, go in the bottom, and the ground goes over here on the side. So remember, there’s two kinds of solar system there’s grid tied and off-grid. We installed a grid tight system here, which means that the solar solar panels need to sense the grid before they start supplying power to my house. If those micro inverters up top don’t sense power from the grid, they’re gon na stay off. So I can touch these wires.

All I want because we’re not attached to the grid. Yet if you want an off-grid system, there’s a few other components need to install and maybe I’ll make a video about that later. But this is all about grid tied. If you do want to use your solar solar panels, when the city power goes out, you would need a battery or a generator. It’S pretty cool that all of those solar solar panels just come down into these six wires makes it pretty simple, and now we’re gon na connect that breaker panel to the solar disconnect with this thicker gauge wire, and it should just go through the hole and we can Wire it up now we’re going to take the same thickness of wire and push it through to the breaker panel on the other side of the wall, so this is still not connected inside of the house, so no power is running to it from the panel’s up Top or from the grid, basically, this safety shutoff is called a knife.

Blade switch so right now it’s connected and watched these metal bars right here when I turn it off the metal, bars knife away and break the connection, and remember since this is a grid-tied system, once those micro inverters up top stop sensing the power they turn off And there’s no power running anywhere in the solar system. So up to this point, we haven’t been working with any live wires. This is the part where we start working in a place where there could be power. Now we have shut off power to this particular panel, but if you’re feeling a little uneasy about working next to live power, you know the grid. You can always hire someone to do this particular portion for you.

If you remember, these three wires are coming in from that safety shutoff outside, and we have an empty slot in the breaker panel, where we’re just gon na connect these wires one into the ground and then the other two into the breaker which connects the solar. On my house to the grid and now my solar wires are connected to the breaker box and the system is on so we powered everything on it’s connected and working, but I still need to get my final inspection and have my meter changed out. So it’ll read power going both directions. That’Ll process will take me about a week or two, but for you guys that time has already passed. My meter is installed and we are pumping out green solar energy.

The solar energy that I don’t use during the day flows out to the grid. This meter keeps track of it, and then I get that solar energy back at night. As a 90 percent credit, the solar energy company takes ten percent off the top because they can and they’re acting at my battery, which is convenient for me with an on grid system. I’Ll show you what the app looks like in a second, the one that shows how much solar I’m actually making in real time but yeah the inspector came by checked all the wiring made sure none of the cables were touching the roof and said we could flip The switch, I think it’s been a pretty fun project, since my solar panels are in the Sun all day, long, not shaded by any trees or not on the wrong side of the house. These will pay themselves off in about nine years.

That’S without any government incentives. Now, if we do factor in the state and federal incentives, they’ll pay themselves off in about six years, so these solar panels will keep making electricity all throughout my lifetime and keep producing power even long after I’m gone, which is pretty awesome remember. These are just ballpark numbers that I’ve estimated I do have an app that keeps track of everything for me. So I’ll probably make a follow-up video in about a year to see if my estimates correct. So if we take a look at the app that is currently on my phone, it’s telling us in real-time how much solar energy we are generating so 7,000 671 watts and then over the lifespan of my solar solar panels.

They generated 843 kilowatt hours and what’s cool is we can go into today’s solar energy right here and see exactly the solar projection that it’s made you can see here in the morning the Sun came out and we started making more electricity throughout the day. If we go back a day, we can see that this day was pretty cloudless up until about noon, and then clouds kind of like came over and started blocking the solar solar panels a little bit, but we still made 48 kilowatt hours of solar energy and the last thing I want to show you is: if we go right here, we can see the production per module so, as the day progresses you can see which modules might be blocked by shade from a tree or a shade from your roof, and you can see that they’re all Working the financial incentive to doing solar solar panels is worth it all by itself, but the whole less air pollution and saving the planet thing is pretty cool too, and that’s it. I will leave both links down in the video description for you, the solar wholesale, as well as the Tesla link, both with their discount codes, and you can see which one works best for you personally, I kind of like to do it yourself side of things, but I totally understand if you want someone else to install it, for you I’ll always be hanging out down in the comments to answer some questions. If you have a neem and I’ll probably make a follow-up video in about a year or so to kind of update you and see how it’s see how it’s been producing for me so make sure you’re subscribed thanks ton for watching and I’ll see you around. Translator, ahmed turk, Validator Abd Al-Rahman Al-Azhurry Earth intercepts a lot of solar solar energy, 137 thousand terawatts Ten times more than what the inhabitants of the Earth use.

So is it likely that one day The world will depend entirely on solar solar energy? To answer that question? First, we need to study how the solar solar panels do By converting solar solar energy into electrical solar energy. Solar solar panels are made of smaller units called solar cells. The most common solar cell is made of silicon.

It is semiconductor and is the second most abundant on Earth. In the solar cell Crystalline silicon filler is applied between conducting layers. Each silicon atom is connected to neighboring atoms by 4 strong bonds. This keeps the electrons in place and prevents the current from flowing Here lies the key. A silicon solar cell uses two different layers of silicon N-type, which contains extra electrons.

The p-type contains additional electron spaces called cavities And at the point where the two types of silicon meet Electrons can travel through the meeting point: ( p, \, n ), Leaving a positive charge on one side And a negative charge at the other side. You can think of light as a flux of infinitesimal particles. They are called photons After launching from the sun. When one of these photons strikes the silicon cell enough solar energy, You can release an electron from its bond, leaving a hole, The negatively charged electron and the positively charged hole position. They are now free to move freely.

But due to the electric field at the meeting point ( p, \ n ), They can only go in one direction. An electron is being pulled in the direction of n, While the gap is being pulled to the direction of p.. The moving electrons are collected by thin metal fingers at the top of the cell From there. It goes through an external circuit To do electrical work As a running light bulb And that before returning through the conductive aluminum plate at the back, Each silicon cell puts half an electric voltage, But it is possible to arrange them in modules to obtain more power.

12 photocells are enough to charge a cell phone While it takes several units to run an entire house. Electrons are the only moving parts of a solar cell And all of it goes back to where it came from. Nothing gets used up or consumed, So solar cells can last for decades. So what is preventing us from becoming totally dependent on solar solar energy? There are political factors at work, Not to mention the commercial interests that press for the continuation of the status quo.

But let’s focus now on the physical and market challenges. The most obvious of these challenges Is that solar solar energy is not evenly distributed across the planet. Some areas are sunnier than others. In addition to being volatile, Only a little solar power is available on cloudy days or at night. Therefore, total dependence will require effective methods For getting electricity from sunny to cloudy areas And efficient solar energy storage.

The efficiency of the cell itself is also a challenge If sunlight is reflected rather than absorbed, Or if the expelled electrons fall into a gap before they cross the circuit. The solar energy of this photon is lost. The most efficient solar cell, to date, Only 46 % of the available sunlight is converted into electricity. Most of the current commercial systems have an efficiency between 15-20 %. Despite these limitations, In fact, it would be possible Powering the whole world.

With current solar cell technology, We will need financing to build the infrastructure And a large space Estimates put it in tens to hundreds of thousands of square miles, Which looks like a very large area, But only the Sahara Desert is more than 3 million square miles. Meanwhile, the solar cells get better and lower the cost And compete with electricity from traditional networks And some innovations, such as floating solar cell farms. It can completely change the scenery. Putting aside thought experiments. There is the fact that there are over a billion people.

They do not have an approved source of electrical solar energy. Especially in developing countries, Which has a sunny atmosphere, Therefore, in those places, Solar solar energy is much cheaper and safer than the available alternatives. Like kerosene, On the other hand, it’s for Finland or for Seattle, Solar solar energy, is a little out of reach. Yet..

Hey there in this video, I’m going to be showing you how to set up a small solar panel system at your house. The whole thing is for things a couple of batteries inverter and the white box to the right of all. That is the charge controller. So you start by setting up your paddles outside. In this case, I have 6 1 amp solar panels set up 15 watts of panel, so that’s 90 watts coming in.

I led them straight down to the main connection. It’S just the six black wires all connected together and twist it tightly to that extension, cord wire and the six red ones connected. Of course, you’re going to want to cover that up, protect it from the rain and stuff and then just run it in the house. Feed the line into your house – that’s the brown wire – you see right there, so that line from the solar solar panels just goes into the charge: controller, okay, good and then the output wire, which is just to the left of that in this case, clamps onto your battery Red to red black to black, to the charge controller. Okay, that’s everything!

It’S all hooked up! We got the solar solar panels coming in. We got the cable from the output to the battery, so solar solar panels to charge controller charge controller to lead battery in your bank and, as you want to expand this to two three four batteries just use some automotive cables and go from positive terminal of one. The positive of the other and with the black wire negative terminal to negative terminal is the other one like that and back-to-back that’s the whole thing right there. When you want to run something just get your inverter, I converse the power from DC to AC.

Take the clamps clamp them onto that same lead battery in the system, so again, red to the red, post or positive side black to the negative side and flip it on so remember when you hook things up like an inverter, the charge, controller, voltmeter or anything you’re Going to hook up on here make sure you always pick one of the batteries to be the lead battery and hook everything to that, whether you parallel one extra battery with it or five or six or however many you want to put on there hey there, just One more thing I added to this: it’s optional, but if you want you can add a lighted voltmeter like this that’ll give you a constant reading on your battery bank, so you know exactly what’s going on with it at all times. So if you have any questions about how to hook up a system like this feel free to ask, that’s everything right there that you need to hook up a solar power system. Hello, solar folks, My name is Jeremy Allen, solar design tech here at Wholesale Solar Today, we’re here to discuss one of the most important parts of your solar array. The solar racking system We’re gon na, go over the installation of the IronRidge XR100 racking system on an asphalt composition, roof using the FlashFoot 2 flashings. There are many other types of roof.

This is the most common, but if you have a tile or metal roof, don’t be afraid we do have a solution for you. We choose to work with the IronRidge racking system because of its ease of installation code compliancy and included state-stamped engineering that will include your wind and snow load requirements specific to your state Before we jump on the roof, be sure to have all of your tools prepared. Your parts laid out and the engineering report that we’ve provided you with so that you know how to lay out the solar panels on the rooftop I do wan na make sure each one of you is being safe up there. You can get a fall protection kit from your local hardware, store or roofing supply store to make sure you’re extra safe. With that said, let’s get started.

One of the pieces of information that is not included on your engineering report is the distance between the rails up on the roof. That’S gon na be dictated by the holes that are pre-drilled on your specific panel. In this case, we’ve got a solar panel here about 100 watts. Its holes are gon na be 35 and a half inches apart. That means the rails on the roof, are gon na be 35 and a half inches apart To get started.

We need to find out where our rafter or truss is within this rooftop. Now, keep in mind some local Authority Having Jurisdiction or your local building department may require you to have full three feet or more from the edge of the roof. In our case, we don’t have that much roof, so we’re gon na go right up to the edge of it Where we’re gon na wan na start out is finding nails if we can in the facia or on that nice, pretty board. That goes along the bottom of your rooftop. In this case, we can see a couple nails and we know generally that that truss is gon na be located somewhere in this area.

We don’t need to know that exact space yet because we’re gon na drill a spot hole through the roof and into the attic. So we can measure exactly where that is The other figure we wan na keep in mind is the 35 and a half inches that we discussed earlier. In this case, we’ll see doesn’t line up exactly with the center of our shingles, which we’d really like to And as long as we’re within two to three inches of those pre-drilled mounting holes on the back of the solar panel. We’Re okay, So we’re gon na know we’re gon na go in the center of this shingle length right here and the center of this shingle length right here. So first thing we’re gon na wan na do we’re gon na wan na get our drill and we’re gon na wan na drill right close to this to see how close we actually are to that rafter Alright.

So the first thing we’re gon na do is we’re gon na put a pilot hole in here. And again we found our truss location somewhere in here, and we know we’ve got ta, be somewhat centered on this course of shingles, so we’re gon na go ahead and put a hole right here and see where we come out in the attic. Now we can leave the drill bit in place so that we can go into the attic and find out where we are in comparison to that truss. At this point, we’re gon na come into the attic space and measure from the center of our drill bit to the edge of our truss to find out exactly how far we have to move over And we see we’ve got about one and five eighths inches. We’Ve got ta another three quarters of an inch to that to be sure we’re centered inside of the truss So let’s go ahead and go back up on the roof and make that happen Alright, so we know we’re an inch and five eighths from the center of this drill bit to the edge of the truss here.

So we’re actually gon na mark out that exact measurement And know we’ve got the edge of our truss Now from there, because all of our standard lumber is gon na be about an inch and a half. We wan na measure three quarters of an inch from that point to the center of. What’S now, gon na be our new hole. Now you’re asking “ You’ve got a hole in your roof. What are you gon na do about that?

?”? We actually will just use a standard sealant, something like Henry’s or whatever your roof. Specific manufacturer requires and put it into this hole to make sure it stays water tight and essentially, that flashing is gon na go over. That hole to make sure it stays weather-proof and water tight anyway.

So from this step, we’ll go ahead and remove our drill bit. So now that we have our center mark here, we’re gon na make another center mark for the next one up again: 35 and a half inches from the bottom hole. So we’re gon na go ahead and measure. In this case we know, we’ve got a good square structure. May not always be that way.

So there may be a couple trips into the attic to spot holes to be sure, you’re hitting the center of your truss. But in this case we’ll go ahead and move along and we’ll find out we’re about 27 and three eighths of an inch from the edge of the roof. Now I’m gon na take that same measurement up to this course of shingles we’re gon na go 27 and three eighths inches up here and know. We’Ve got a line now that we can take with our chalk and make a good visible line for future holes that we’re gon na be drilling. Now, if you have multiple solar panels high or multiple solar panels, wide you’ll, just do this – that many more times to be sure you have all the holes lined up before you actually start drilling, So we’ve got a good chalk block and we’re actually gon na get in here.

We’Re gon na chalk out a line on here, so everyone can see exactly where we’re gon na be drilling. And pretty simple now from here again as long as the framing’s standard, you should have about a 24 inch center-to-center line. Your truss is typically your 24 inches from each other. But again, that’s not gon na always be the case, so you’ll wan na double check We’re gon na go ahead and pull the tape measurer 24 inches over and know that should be the next truss. So now we have our two trusses marked out where we’re actually gon na be drilling into the roof.

The other thing that we need to do is actually get that line lined up here, where our rails are actually going to be sitting. So we’re gon na take a measurement from the bottom of the roof to the center of this, or, if you really trust your roofer, and know that they made straight lines to begin with a lot of times. You can follow their course of shingles and know you should be really close. So if we did that right, we’ll know these’ll be our first few real holes that will hold the flashings in place, So we’re gon na go ahead and drill in Now that we have all of our holes drilled, we’re gon na get up underneath each course of shingles to make sure that our flashing has a good place to slide up and seat itself. So we’re gon na take our flat bar and we’re gon na slide.

It up under here and look for any resistance where there might be actually nails popping up and we’re going to try and remove them. Sometimes you’re gon na get lucky which in this case it looks like we may have with this flashing, where there’s not gon na, be any nails that would obstruct that flashing. Other places you might find out, there’s gon na be a couple nails and you’re gon na have to remove those and possibly replace them if need be, to keep those shingles in place. Before we put the flashing in place, we are gon na put the appropriate sealant in the holes to make sure our roof remains water tight In this case we’ve got some good old Henry’s we’re gon na fill that hole up completely, knowing that the flashing’s still gon Na cover this hole and keep it even further weather tight Get a good amount in there make sure it’s good coverage and if you need to go through on the other side into the attic to make sure that did fill that hole completely. Now we’re gon na go ahead and put our flashing in place, lag it down into the hole that we drilled already and go from there.

We’Re gon na slide this flashing up under that course of shingles. Knowing we don’t have any nails up there, These center lines there’s actually little punches in the flashing to line you up. If you’ve got a chalk line going the length of your roof, which you will in longer solar arrays, you can line up these little notches right with those chalk lines and it’ll center. You right to where that hole should be Now, in this case, we know we’re close to that hole and we’re gon na go ahead and start threading. Our bolt in place make sure that we don’t have anything in that hole.

You can use an air compressor to clean out the hole if you need to And then just a basic ratchet and we’re gon na, tighten that guy up until it starts to seat all the way to the roof. Now we don’t wan na over-tighten to where it’s concaving that flashing, you can actually cause issues in doing so And again we don’t wan na get too tight. We just wan na seat firmly against the rooftop And you’ll feel it I don’t recommend doing this with a power tool because you will over-tighten them and you can ruin the flashings or break the bolt just from the excess heat going into the truss. And so we’re fully seated there we actually have a cap. That’S now gon na go on the top of this.

That’S gon na connect it to the rail that we’re putting in place. This is the proprietary piece that IronRidge has come up with to make their flashings. This easy to install As you see the bolt is raised off of the roof surface so that if water does come through here, even without this cap being on there there’s no way of that water actually getting down into the rooftop So we take this piece here and it’s gon na go in place and it can have two different locations. It’S either gon na be up and down that like that which we actually don’t want, that we want to go back one quarter of a turn and lock it so that the rail will sit right across it like this Alright, our last little guy here and we’re ready to move onto the rail install Alright. So the next portion of this installation is gon na, be the actual rails being attached to these flashings.


Each setup’s gon na have some different amounts of hardware that we’re gon na. Have to look at before we put the rail in place In this case. We’Ve got it simple, because we only have two attachments from the rail to the flashings And we’re gon na use the supplied hardware. That’S actually gon na be a square on one end and a regular nut on the other end. That square end’s gon na slide down the rail channel all the way to the one side we’ll get both of those in there.

So we have them in place And we can even line them up close to where the flashings are. If you’ve got the rails sitting on the rooftop like this In a lot of cases, I am gon na suggest to get that rail ready ahead of time down on the ground, if possible, In this case, we’ll loosen up these nuts enough to where they slide right. Over these flashings, So in this case, we’re actually gon na mount this rail with the non-hardware side facing down towards the ground, so that you don’t see any of that hardware. If you’re looking up at the array, So we’re gon na spin it around we’re gon na line it up with those flashings and we’re gon na drop it right down over the top of these We’re gon na keep it loose for now just hand tight until we get the other rail in place to Make sure that they actually line up We’re gon na wan na measure from a common point on the roof, in this case the edge of the roof, to make sure that these rails are flush. In a lot of cases, you could actually cut the rails up on the roof.

However, I don’t suggest doing that just because of the metal shards that you’ll have all over your rooftop and because you could damage the solar panels if there already mounted on top of these rails, So we’re gon na go ahead and measure and then we’ll tighten everything down. And then we’ll hand-tighten as we go through making sure that the elevation of the rail is where you want it to be Now some rooftops aren’t completely flat so because of that IronRidge’s flashings do have an elevation adjustment so that you can make sure that rail itself Does remain flat and consistent through the whole array. Now there are gon na be torque specs on each one of these. If you are using a torque wrench make sure that you are using a very high quality, torque wrench. If you over-torque these bolts, they will break Alright, so now we have our basic rail installation in place, Now’s it time to actually dress these rails with the appropriate wire management and install any microinverters or optimizers that we may have as part of the system.

First thing we’re gon na do is install these end. Caps IronRidge provides these end caps for their rails to be sure that no bees or bugs or anything gets inside of the rails, and it’s also a good way to make everything. Look pretty good, So we’re just gon na snap, these in place This is assuming that your rails are cut to length which, like I said before, you should have them cut to length before getting them up on the roof. It’S always good to double check, because once you do cut, you can’t go back Now that we have those end caps in place we’ll place some wire management clips on the top rail or on the rail. That’S gon na be closest to where your wires are gon....

Na be located either for the PV modules themselves or for possible optimizers or microinverters that could be part of the installation, So typically you’re gon na get three of these clips per module and you’ll want to just slide them right. On top of the rail close to where they may be, They’Re fully adjustable so once we get the solar solar panels up here and ready to install we’ll, adjust them accordingly to make sure they’re in the correct place. So one of the most important parts of getting the whole rail system prepared is making sure we’re properly grounded. Now the IronRidge system makes this grounding method very simple by adding one ground bolt to each solar array. Now this one ground bolt attaches to your bare copper wire, goes down to your ground rod, that’s already existing, and this one ground lug, is actually gon na go through the whole system, because their whole rail system is integrated.

Which means each piece and part has little teeth on it, that bonds, everything together to be sure you don’t have to individually ground each PV module. So this little guy right here we’re gon na go ahead and install on either rail whatever’s closest to your grounding mechanism. That’D, what we’re gon na use? In this case, we’re gon na set it on top of the rail just for ease of installation and so that you can see what we’re actually doing Now on your individual installation. You may choose to actually hide this up underneath the solar panel....

That’S not a problem as long as it’s properly grounded, you’ll be safe Part of dressing. Our rails is gon na, be installing any microinverters or solar optimizers that we may have as part of our installation These guys. In this case, this is a SolarEdge power optimizer, which will come included with all of our SolarEdge systems. This will be attached on each solar panel and then attached to each other, then down to the inverter to carry the DC current. So what we’re gon na do is we’re gon na try and center this right underneath, where that solar, panel’s gon na sit, so that everything has easy access to plug into each other.

So again we have a simple piece of hardware, just a T, bolt with a nut and again same grounding mechanism built into it, with the little teeth that are gon na bond this unit to the rail Now these are a T bolt, so you will wan na make sure that they are positively seated inside this channel and that the T is turned completely. You’Ll know that that T is turned correctly by the little hash mark in the top of that bolt being opposite of the rail itself. So in this case, we’re going up and down with that little hash mark where our rail is going side to side. So in this case, we have our optimizer put in place right where we’re gon na want it underneath that solar panel And we can use the wire management that we have in place to set the cables up underneath here and they clip so they hold it. Now we know that we’re gon na do some adjusting with our wires and, in this case, actually not have an optimizer for our system, but I did wan na show you what all was entailed with that installation and how you would appropriately use this wire management system.

What we have here is the UFO system by IronRidge This is a mid clamp which will actually be used throughout the whole system and with the addition of the stopper sleeve. This will turn into an end. Clamp We’ll just simply push the two pieces together, snap them together and that now is an end clamp that will hold the end of the solar panels in the array together, Whereas the single piece by itself will separate the solar panels in the center. Now we’re gon na move onto the actual installation of the solar panel using the IronRidge UFO clamps We’ll have these end clamps on the end of the rail we’ll have the mid clamps between the solar solar panels that we’re actually installing I generally recommend that you have a few hands doing this. At least You will be dealing with a 50 to 60 pound solar panel and they’re not very easy to hold in place, while you’re bolting In this case, we’ve got a really lightweight solar panel for this project, just to make it really easy I’ll go ahead and lay this solar panel down We’re gon na make sure that we’re going over the top of our wire management and in the case that we Do have an optimizer or a microinverter.

We wan na make sure that we’re not pinching it in any way. That this panel is sitting flush down on the rails, with those mounting holes within two to three inches again of the rail itself. We’Re gon na take the mid clamp, the part that doesn’t have the sleeve we’re actually gon na set it up here. This is gon na be between two solar solar panels and you’re gon na end up having a number of these. If you have a longer array, These’ll sit in place: okay, they’re, just a little T bolt on the end.

So again, they’re gon na go into the channel turn and lock in place. The end clamp again with that sleeve is what’s going on the end of the panel That sleeve makes sure that nothing tightens down too much that it won’t be able to hold this panel in place Once we have these up here, we are going to go ahead and tighten down our end, clamps, Not all the way, but just enough to assist in Holding the panel And again, you do wan na make sure you have positive pressure on that T, bolt to make sure it doesn’t spin within the channel Same thing on the bottom and of course, now we wan na make sure again. Our measurements are really similar with the rails from the edge of the roof, so that it all lines up. Aesthetically Now we’ve completed the installation of our IronRidge roof mount racking system. If you have any questions while going through this process, feel free to give us a call or stop by our website at wholesalesolar.

om. My name’s Jeremy Allen I’ll see you next time.. Thank you for visiting us here at renergie today in this video, we will be showing you how to connect your solar panels. In parallel and in series for this video, we will be using two 100 watt solar panels, we’re going to begin with a parallel connection to wire our solar panels....

In parallel, we will need our MC 4 branch connectors, also known as Y connectors, to begin our parallel connection. We’Re going to grab both of our positive leads, which are readily identified by the indicator. We grab our nc4 connector and we just plug it in like this. Next we’re going to grab both of our negative leads, we plug them into the other adapter. Now we have a positive lead and a negative lead, and the next step would be to plug these in to our adapter kit.

Now that we have our parallel connection set up, we are ready to attach our adapter kit to our solar panels. You can use your either use the 9 inch adapter kit or the 10-foot adapter kit for this video we’re just going to use the 9 inch deprecate since we’re so close to our charge. Controller. We’Re to take our positive connection and touch our abductor kit. Take our negative connection, adapter, if advocate and as you can see, our bare wires are exposed and we are now ready to plug into the charge controller when your pedals are in direct sunlight and your these are exposed and you’re running your wiring.

You just want to make sure not to cross these wires together because it could short out the diodes in the junction box, since our 100 watt solar panels are rated at 12 volts. Our parallel connection now allows us to maintain a 12-volt system and we can connect to a 12-volt battery using a PWM charge controller. Now that we’ve covered the basics of our parallel connection, we’re going to transition into connecting our solar panels into a series series connection, we’ll utilize. A 24 volt system, the first thing we’re going to do for our serious connection, is we’re going to take our negative lead from one panel and our positively from the other panel in order to connect them together, like so now, over left with a positive lead, we’re Left with a negative lead, we’re going to take our adaptor kit, attach our positive lead like so we’re going to put the adaptor kit on our negative lead like so now we are ready to plug our leads into our charge. Controller.

We’Ve now just converted our 12-volt system into a 24 volt system. Now that we’ve connected our solar panels in series and we have a 24 volt system, we can now connect to a 24 volt battery bank using our PWM charge controller. We’Ve just showed you how to complete a connection using parallel and series. If you have any more questions, we encourage you to give us a call, here’s our information, and we also want to let you know that soon in the near future, we’ll be including videos that will guide you to connecting a more complicated, parallel and serious connection. Using three or more solar panels, So guys show you my solar system uninstalling.

Here we are installing a interface system. I got a one point: four, seven o’clock system, installing that I bought off affordable solar. These are our solar panels. These are two hundred forty five watt. Canadian solar solar panels got six of them in series and once again, we’re doing an in-phase system using interphase inverters on the roof and here’s non junction box when right through the roof right through the attic and ran the wires using row max 12 3 and through the Attic my breaker box is on the back I’ll show you that in a little bit and yeah a couple challenges, I guess I made this project difficult.

You know I really have never done a roof penetration, and this is my my first roof penetrations. I got 10 roof penetrations in total here that a bare copper wire. This is my grounding electrode conductor and I’m using this called the solar mount high beam. I really wouldn’t recommend this solar mount high beam. Again....

I probably wouldn’t use it if I had the probably won’t use it again. Just gave me a little bit of trouble. You know I didn’t really like the splice but yeah. Let me show you the back to show you. The junction box is one last time so in-phase pretty good.

They got this engaging cable running, comes off these interphase inverters AC and comes into this box. This is my junction box. It’S my real next wire right there and I’m going to use that little term. Those little terminal strip to junction between the wires and I got a little like kind of splice, neutral kind of come connector for my number-6 and my ground yeah. Let me show you the breaker box, alright guys.

So here is um. My AC disconnect. I am production leader and there is the breaker box, so I had a choice of whether to go through the attic or come around. The house with conduit chose to go through the attic, mainly because I thought the wire run was definitely shorter and the homeowner expressed some concerns about. I guess make an expansion over over where I was not going to run conduit, so we ran through the attic.

I was just a little difficult because you had a like this. Eva is like a six-inch crawlspace. You really need like two people to get up there and grab that wire, but it wasn’t too difficult. You know if you can get into small spaces. Colin comes down into my AC, disconnect, which my AC disconnect just got, that off Square D said I’m running a row max 12-gauge wire and I’m running into my production meter, and I used that plastic conduit.

You know you can get it Lowe’s or Home Depot. That was pretty cheap and here’s. My breaker box Condit runs in there and just got a run into my breakers that it right there that I got 20 app breakers has about it. Um, let’s see if it works tomorrow. What’S up guys again, I’m going to show you the final system ready to produce power, so here the solar panels.

I did time map to this, alright, so here’s the time-lapse, I found it best to connect the wires up first and then clamp on the solar panels. Those uh solar panels need to be my torque to a specific rating, so I got a torque wrench there and it’s pretty straightforward. You know mainly just Bolton stuff on at this point yeah. This is the easy part really nice being out in the Sun. Just want to make sure those cables really aren’t hanging on the roof and basically just zip tie them up there onto the i-beam and there I am just making sure those cables are on the roof.

It’S me honking up that roof penetration through some rocks on it. Just to make sure it was a heat hearing right that was about it and yeah they went up pretty fast, probably took about an hour to to put the panel’s up. There’S my Emory roof penetration, all gunked up thar and yeah. It’S ready to turn this puppy on not too sunny today, but we’ll definitely do some power here, all right, so we’re at the backside of the house. Here we got through electrical inspection yesterday and I had to make a couple changes on the electrical inspector we’re here in Carbondale Colorado.

So if you’re dealing with Bob fuller he’s the state, electron Spector and a couple things he didn’t like you didn’t like, I didn’t have this conduit, I’m gon na strap to the wall, so maybe put those on. So I put one there one there one down here too. I already had my labels. You know, depending on your jurisdiction, I don’t know if you need labels or not, but but in here in the production here, Bob had me make some changes. You have these lugs on this production me there’s a 200 amp, a lever bypass production meter and Bob had me um, just kind of make kind of, like just extensions of number-6 wire, because I just had this number 12 wire romex wire into these lugs, and you Know definitely by the UL listing over here.


It’S only supposed to be a number six and bigger, which I read, but I kind nord so bob just made me do some extensions and yeah. I guess that’ll work and I just used wire nuts on the wires. I also had those I had like some rubber grommets that I bought at Ace Hardware that electrical inspector also did not like. So I took those off a bit of a pain yesterday, but I don’t cook me a couple hours and yeah now we’re ready to turn this puppy on so see how it goes all right moment of truth. So I flip on our AC, disconnect and flip on our lever bypass and I’m just having nightmares that this thing’s just gon na blow up my face, but least I got my safety glasses on and I’ll flip the breaker and maybe we’ll produce some power.

Let’S see what the meter says, they might take a while to produce a kilowatt hour, but I’m going to take some measurements and least didn’t blow up all right. So we bought one of these invoice. Communication gateway systems for the in-phase system and I just hooked it up. Then I go through its process there and you can see you once it’s cool through. We just produce 578 watts of power 391 watt hours already, so I’m pretty confident that’s working great and this thing you can hook up.

I have a website too, so you can monitor production and stuff. I’M going to do that. Next, How to make a homemade solar panel? This is the first in three videos of a solar DIY project. Everything you should know to build a 100 watt solar panel at home in order to charge a 12-volt battery with solar solar energy.

A solar panel with 18 volts is required so to build a solar panel capable of charging a 12-volt battery. You will need 2 millimeters of tabbing wire and another of 5 millimeters solder wire is a must: have a flux, pen, strapping tape, also known as short tape. Regular tape, a solder iron between 60 and 80 watts an multimeter one that conveyor of both voltage and current silicon pastes, preferably crystalline with UV protection, epoxy resin, the best and easie way to do it yourself to encapsulate the back of a solar panel. This epoxy resins have excellent adhesion to glass and acrylic plastic and ethoxy hardener. Here the measure is two to one ratio and, of course, last but not least, the solar cells here is up to you.

You can purchase preet absolu cells, they have tabbing wire already attached. It will cost a bit more, but will saves you a lot of time and work in video description below you find links to everything you need to start building your solar panel. Let’S get started. The first set we have to take is to measure the length of the tabbing wire between two cells, grab, two cells and join them close to each other, like this, two or three millimeters between them is enough. With one cell face up is the negative side and face down: is the positive side measure the length of the tab wire along both cells?

The job here now is to measure and cut the tabbing wire for all 36 cells for your solar panel to make this task less tedious cut the tabbing wire to one row of nine cells. At a time, and after that, you can start cell during the tabbing wire on the negative side of each cell to do this first pass along each conduct line the flux pen. This will prevent beating of the solder Arum and also helps the cell to flow cleanly position. The tab wire on the cell and start soldiering from top to bottom in a continuous movement soldiering is not so hard. You get it right very fast, but get prepared for a couple hours of work, so this type of 6×6 polycrystalline cells usually has three connecting bus lines.

We have to weld 36 cells on the negative side first, where next it must be welded on the positive side that is the back of each cell, creating a string of 18 volts, the needed current to charge a 12 volt battery, one of the best and strongest Materials to use in a solar panel is tempered glass. Three millimeters are more than enough for strength and durability, being also the ideal surface to start cell during your solar cells start by giving a good cleaning. Now with a clean surface, we can start put things together, but first, let’s again see how a solar panel works. The first cell in this row is the negative side of the solar panel that will be welded to the negative bass wire becaming. This way, the negative pole of the solar panel and continuing with the next three strings of cells, all welded together from front to back of each other, making this way a total of 36 cells of 18 volts....

Another thing to note is that solar cells are very fragile for this reason and almost guarantee you will break one or more cells, even if it is a very small crack, you can use regular tape and repair it easily. Now that you know how a solar panel works, it’s time to connect all cells together, to make this task much easier. Here are some tips you can use to do this correctly. It is convenient to use a type off tweezers or even a way to hold the wire in the correct place to weld Here. I am using a scissor which works very well.

Another useful tip is to use normal tape to hold the cells in place. In this way, they remain aligned, helping you to weld more easily and quickly, and if the tabing wire is a bit long, simply cut off the loose ends. When you finish the job now with all cells tab together, it’s time to clean again the glass surface. Now, with the glass clean, it’s time to position and secure the cells in place by measuring the string of cells closest to the edge of the glass, we find the margin on all sides of the panel. Then, with all cells in place, we need to keep each string off cells tightly attached to the glass first, with normal tape and next, with short tape, now pass the short eight from top to bottom, between each string of cells and at the same time it is Convenient to double check for any broken cells, even if there is a slight crack, the cause affair is the encapsulation will pass through it, and the epoxy resin will eventually yellow over time now, with all cells secure in place.

Let’S proceed by cell during the string of cells into the bus wire start by cutting a five millimeter wide tabbing wire to the width size of the two middle cell strings and secure the bus wire with regular tape, cut the loose ends of the cell tabbing wire And you’re ready to solder the two middle rows together here I will weld the tab wire from the positive side of the cell to the bass wire, which will then weld to the negative side of next string of cells. Easy, as you will see, right away now, is to do the same for the other two row of cells on the top of the panel, and then it ends with this two bus wires, which show the positive and the negative poles. And after this, with a string of 36 cells connected to the positive and negative bass wire, we have to test. If we have a promising solar panel with the panel facing the Sun measure, the voltage with a multimeter and make sure that it produces at least more than 18 volts here, I tested on a spring morning keep in mind that solar solar panels always lose tension in the Hottest hours depending your region, you should get about 18 point six volts. During the peak Sun hours now back to the office, we going to proceed by soldering two copper wires to the poles of the panel.

Here you can choose to use the 5 millimeter bass quieted. Also to be connected to the junction box in the bottom middle of the panel, if I choose a pair of copper wires, does the same job, and I am not using a bypass diode this, because I will use a PWM charge controller to protect the solar panel And the battery from overcharging and reverse current respectively. Now, let’s continue by preparing the solar panel for the encapsulation. The first step we need to do is by placing the silicon on the edges of the glass. This will prevents the resin from spreading out of the panel epoxy resin is one of the best ways to keep solar cells from a home, made solar panel away from moisture.

For a panel of this size, you will need about 40 ounces about three pounds or one kilogram is enough, it’s not cheap, but it is the best choice over the eva film to encapsulate a solar panel made at home to know where to get this type of Clear epoxy resin follow the links in video description below and, of course, epoxy hardener. Here the blend should be two times the epoxy resin for one hardener and mix these two compounds in a plastic container and mix it slowly mainly to avoid getting air into the mixture. After about two minutes, mixing the resin with the hardener mix it again in another container to obtain a faster and stronger curing finish. This second mixture must be made to obtain a perfect and well cured resin. Now what we have to do is to pour the mixture on the back of the panel to do this simply pour the EPOC see resin from top to bottom, in a constant movement and after 12 hours you will have an encapsulated solar panel.

Now is time to make the panel frame get three l-shaped aluminum profiles, two meters long and at least three millimeters thick. You can also go with wood, it all depends on your budget and how much you want to spend with your panel. This part can be done at the beginning, knowing the size of the glass the panel frame can be made, and then with the glass attached on the panel frame with silicone proceed with the welding of the cells and the bass wires. Until finally, the encapsulation is made, but always put the silicone in the edges of the glass before doing the encapsulation. Now I’ll leave you with the images on how to make the frame for your panel measuring the length of each side of the glass mark each profile with a marker leave at least two millimeters of cutting edge.

Next, to cut the profiles, you can use a cutter holder with a 90 degrees angle, but it is best to use a miter saw. An angular ruler can also be used to check the cutting angle. It is also useful to keep the profiles in place during assembly and the best thing to attach the glass and frame together as to use stainless steel brackets and screws. For this panel, I use twelve brackets eight to support the glass and four to join the profiles. Position the brackets in place, mark and drill the holes and now join each frame together.

As I mentioned earlier, we can make the frame before starting putting things together. We can make the frame and attach the glass with silicone. Then start soldiering, the solar cells, the bus wire and, in the end with the encapsulation, so add the silicon to the inner base of each profile then attach the glass to the frame. Next put the brackets in place, add the junction box and then the 100 watt solar panel, it’s finally concluded so now we assemble the frame and the encapsulated panel together and now we put the brackets in place. But if you decided to add a back sheet like this one on the back of your panel, do it before making the holes of the frame and then proceed by putting the brackets in place.


Here. I am NOT using the back sheet and the reason is for you to see how the back of a solar panel looks like and now glue. The junction box, with the same silicon paste, make a hole to pass the pole wires and you have a solar panel in your hands now watch this next part where we test the voltage and amperage thanks for watching and subscribe. If you haven’t already see you in next videos, Hi, this is Amy from the altE Store. Well, I’ve already shown you a video just kind of in general showing how shading affects solar panels, But what I wanted to do is show you a little bit more details and different options that you can take.

If shading is not avoidable, How you can wire your solar panels differently to help minimize the shading, So I have two identical 50W solar solar panels here: They are 12V, so their Vmp, their Maximum Power Output, is about 18V And their Imp. Their Maximum Current is about 2.78A. Now it is getting to be almost 4:00, so I’m not going to get perfect performance out of this, but I think that you are really going to be able to see quite well how shading affects solar panels. Now I’m going to be talking about cells, Each solar panel is made up of a series of cells, So you can see here.

This is one cell, So each cell puts out just over about 1/2 volt. So what you do is the silver that is going across here. This is wire. That is wiring. All of these cells in series, so that increases the volts, so the output becomes about 18V.

Now most of the 12V solar solar panels that you’ll see are actually 36 cell solar panels. These are 72 cell solar panels. These are altE Store solar panels. The reason that is is they have actually got two parallel strings of 36, So we’ve got 36 cells, wired in series, 36 cells wired in series and then those two sets are wired in parallel. So I just wanted to let you know when I’m talking about cells, that’s what’s going on!

Ok, Ok! So right now I just have one of these solar solar panels. Wired to my test setup. I’Ve got the MPPT Midnite Kid charge controller going to my MK Battery 12V battery. So I’ve got a 12V panel right now, just going by itself through the charge controller into the battery And we can see that I’ve got coming right out of the solar panel.

I have 14 9V, and 2.46A. So that’s pretty good, considering I’m not at perfect conditions. And coming out of the charge controller to the battery is 12.6V and 2.

59A, So you can see even when it’s a 12V panel and a 12V battery, the MPPT does drop the volts and raise the amps a bit. So, let’s take a look at the power rating, So I’ve got 36.6W coming out of the solar panel going into the charge controller. And then 32.7W going into the battery, So there’s always going to be a little bit of losses through any sort of equipment that you go Alright.

So those are the numbers that we’re going to be taking a look at So here again is one cell of a solar panel, So I’ve got 72 cells. Now I want to show you what happens if I shade one full cell of this solar panel, So I go from 2.45A with one cell shaded, I drop down to 1 7A, So you would think that OK well boy, one cell, dropping it down that much. What’S 2 cells going to do! Ah that drops down to 1.

A but you’re going to notice the volts. Isn’T all that impacted! We’Re at 14 9V, if I shade the 1 I’m still at 14.9V, Even if I start shading several of them, I’m really not seeing much difference in the volts. Where I see the difference is amps, So current is affected by shading Now, let’s take a look at if I’m shading across multiple cells, but just a little bit of it, So I’ve got 1 2 3.


I’Ve got 6 cells that I’m shading just about a quarter of them, I’m at 2.3A. That’S actually not bad. 2.4A, So the direction of what you shade is as important as where you shade.

So you can see I’m shading the same amount. I’M shading out an entire cell vs. same amount of shade vs A bunch of them just part of them, So keep this in mind when we continue on we’re going to show some demonstrations here. So what I’m going to do is I’m going to wire these two solar panels in series and see what shading one panel does to the whole array? Alright, Let’s rewire to do that.

Ok, so now we have these two solar solar panels, wired in series, So our volts is 27.5V. So that’s the two voltages pretty much added together. And then our current is 2.1A, so the current stayed right about the same, because when you wire in series the voltage increases and the current stays the same.

So if we look at our output into the charge controller, our watts is doubled because we’ve got the two solar solar panels going in there now. So the volts again dropped from the higher voltage down to the 12V to charge my battery and increased the current to 4.28A. So, let’s work on the shading, So if I start shading 1 string now remember, we’ve got let’s say: we’ve got 55W going into the charge controller. So I’m going to shade 1 cell sand: that’s dropping us down to 37 36W, So shading 1 cell....

It brought us all the way down from over 50 59W down to < whistles > 36W. So, let’s see shading multiple 4 really didn’t. Do that much difference! We’Re at 32W – let’s say So, the difference again wired in series. The difference between shading, one cell and multiple cells is not all that different Just for kicks and giggles shade, some from both, so one from both We’re dropped down to 36W shading both solar panels, So this is with them wired in series.

So let me write down these volts and we’re going to rewire everything and we’re going to see what it does if I’ve got them wired in parallel. Alrighty Alright, So now we’ve got the two solar panels: wired in parallel, So you’ll see that our current has doubled and our volts has stayed the same. So we’re right around 15V, That’s right around what we were seeing with just a single one: But our current is up to 4.49A, so let’s say 4.5A, So we are double or almost double with what we were with just a single one.

So now, if we look at the watts we’re at 66W coming out, So again, it’s all right about in the same ballpark that we had when we had the two of them wired in series, So now that we’re wired in parallel with the pluses together and the minuses together, let’s see what happens to the whole thing when we shade Just one cell, So I’m shading this cell again, my volts really isn’t doing much. I’M at 16.6V really not changing much! I’M going from 3 46A to 3.2A – actually, that’s not so bad!

So, let’s shade a couple of them: 3A. 2.9. So now i’m starting to see some more substantial differences. But what’s happening is because we’ve wired these seperately each panel has got its own seperate path to get to the battery So shading, just one of the solar panels is not going to be negaively impacting the other panel, Whereas when we had them in series, we were negatively Impacting the whole series, because everything had to go through the whole series: So the current was hitting a bottleneck when we shade the one.

So if we do shade a cell from both solar panels, then yup we’re going to drop down to – let’s say 2 6A but again the volts, don’t change all that much. So this kind of shows you that if you do have some partial shading and it’s on only one of the solar panels at a time so say, you’ve got a chimney that you really have no control over or if it’s on a sailboat and you’ve got the mast. That is kind of important if you’ve got partial shading, that’s going to be changing it’s better to wire them in parallel to give the parallel path for the non-shaded panel. Ideally – and I know I say this a lot ideally, each panel should have its own charge controller. That way you will get absolute maximum performance, but if it’s not an option, wiring in parallel with partial shading is your better solution.

I hope this was helpful. If so, give us a like and a share and be sure to subscribe to our altE Store channel so we’ll notify you when we’ve got new videos coming out And don’t forget to go to our website at altEstore. Com, where we’ve been making renewable do-able since 1999.., Hi, this is Amy at the altE Store.

We sell a lot of solar solar panels for DIY off-grid solar projects Generally, when we design a solar system. We start with your loads what you are trying to power and from there you figure out what size solar panel. You need Weve got lots of videos walking you through the calculations, But now we are going to look at it the other way around. What can you power with a 100W solar panel? A solar panel is rated by the amount of power it creates at Standard Test Conditions or STC.

These conditions include the intensity of the sun, 1000 watt per square meter. The angle of the light hitting the panel directly, the temperature, 25 or 77 and other criteria So, as they say, actual mileage may vary based on all of these factors in the real world. So we generally reduce the calculations based on the difference between the lab setting and your actual installation When a 12V solar panel is rated at 100W. That is an instantaneous rating if all of the test conditions are met. When you measure the output, the voltage will be about 18 volts and the current will be 5.

5 amps, Since watts equals volts times. Amps 18 volts x, 5.55 amps, =, 100 watts Watts is like the speed of a car miles per hour. How fast is it going at that instant 50 miles per hour To figure out how much power is generated over a period of time? You can to multiply the watts times the number of hours it is running So in one hour, 100W x, 1 hour, =, 100 watt hours Again, with your car 50 miles per hour x, one hour equals 50 miles.

Now that we know the math behind it, we need to figure out how many hours to plug into the equation, to determine how much power the solar panel will generate in a day. How many hours of sunlight that is equal to the intensity of standard test conditions, which is basically the sun at noon? Will the solar panel be exposed to during the day The number of hours of sunlight equal to noon is called sun hours, As you well know? Even though the sun is up at 8 in the morning, it is not as bright as it is at noon. So you cant just say that the sun is shining for 10 hours, so Ill, multiple 100W x, 10 hours The hour between 8 and 9 in the morning is probably only half as strong as the sun from noon to 1 in the afternoon.


So the morning hour would probably only be equal to sun hour. But the days are so much shorter in the winter than the summer, the number of sun hours would be dramatically different throughout the year. Also, the amount of sunlight Id get in Miami Florida would be different than the amount of sun hours Id get in Portland Maine Ugh. This can get complicated. Luckily, some very smart people have taken decades worth of weather data and calculated out the number of sun hours for all over the world broken out by month and even the tilt angle that the solar panels are mounted So I can look at the charts to see if I have a 100W solar panel in Portland Maine installed at about 45 degrees angle on annual average Id get 4 6 sun hours a day.

Likewise, if I took that same solar panel in Miami Florida installed it at a 25 degree, tilt Id have an annual average of 5.2 sun hours. Just as a little aside, I want to make sure you see that during the months of June and July, Im going to get more power out of that solar panel in Maine than I will in Florida. With Miami being closer to the equator and Maine being closer to the north pole, the days are longer in the summer in Maine, and so the sun shines on the solar solar panels. Longer Kind of cool, huh, OK, back to the question at hand, what can I power with a 100W solar panel?

I need to figure out my worst case scenario. What is the worst performing month that Ill be using the panel Since, for this example, Im going to be using it in Maine during ski season? I need to figure on December, So how can I squeeze out as much power as I possibly can in December? By tilting the solar panel steeper, so it points right at the low winter sun. So Im going to mount my 100W solar panel at 60 degrees and figure on 3.

sun hours Ill now take 100W x, 3.2 sun hours and get 320 watt hours a day in December. Now, as you know, nothing in real life is perfect, so I have to figure in losses that Ill likely incur, such as voltage drop across the wire dirt, ( or snow ) accumulating on the solar panel losses through the charge, controller etc. So Im going to multiply the 320 watt hours times .7.

I know thats figuring on losing about of your power Realitys a bummer I now end up with 224 watt hours of power that I have made with my 100W solar panel on a December day. What can I do with that power? Well, first of all, I need to store it in a battery so that I can use it later when I need it. So, Im going to use at least a 7 amp charge controller to manage putting the power into a deep cycle battery that can be charged and discharged on a regular basis. What size battery do?

I need Sorry that calls for more math. I have my 224 watt hours that Im making and Im putting it in a 12 volt battery, Because watts divided by volts equals amps 224 watt hours divided by 12, volts equals 18.6 amp hours. Even though Im putting it in a deep cycle battery, most batteries still dont like being drained down more than half way so Im going to make sure I get a battery that can hold at least twice as much power. I will be using so Ill.

Only use half of the power in it 18.6 amp hours x, 2, = 37.2 amp hours, The amount of power a battery can store changes depending on the temperature of the room its in. If my battery is going to be as cold as 60 degrees Fahrenheit, I need to increase the size of my battery by 11 % to accommodate the cooler temps 37. 2 amp hours x, 1.

1, = 41.3 amp hours Im also going to be converting the DC power from my battery to AC, using an inverter and Im going to lose about 5 % of my power through that conversion. So 41.3 amp hours, / 95 = 43.4 amp hours, Now I dont know if youve ever been in Maine in the winter, But trust me on this one....

The sun doesnt shine every day there in December, Not by a long shot. So I need to figure out how many days without sun that I need to store the power for to get me through those sunless days. Lets say I need it to last me the weekend without sun 43.4 amp hours x, 2 days, = 86.9 amp hours, Great Im going to get myself a group 27 deep cycle battery thats 89Ah.

12V. Ok, now I can finally figure out what I can do with that power. I can run my laptop that uses 45W for 5 hours Because 224 Watt hours, / 45W = 4.97 hours, Or I can power 3 of my 10W LED lights for 7 hours and still have a little power left over Or I could make myself a cup of coffee, listen to the radio while reading a book with a 10W light on for 3 hours and use my Laptop for 2 hours, This should give you enough information so that you can figure out how to fit this into your situation. You can change the numbers to fit your area and your power needs.

If you need a little help, you can go to our loads list calculator to see how much power common appliances use and go to our reference page to see some sun hours, charts and maps. If you enjoyed this video, give us a like and a share and subscribe to our altestore channel to be notified when we post more videos Also go to our website at, where weve been making renewable do-able since 1999…


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